Posted by: twelch
on Jul 29, 2010
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The 1962 Thunderbird came out with a new grille and taillights with two new models. One was called the Landau. Its interior is built to order and the roof had a cloth cover Landau S bars on the sides. The other new model was the sporty roadster. This was a special upholstery on the seats and wheels lightning, but did not have the tail of the compact rear that had the other models. Of the two, the Sports Roadster was a car much more exciting.
Before we discuss innovations include the bases. The style was influenced by fashion, "Kalifornia Kustom" of the early 60s, the model 62 had a redesigned grille with four horizontal lines with small bright vertical bars. In front of the grid a "jaladera". Moldings were replaced "stacked" in the back of the compact model 61 by a horizontal dashed line. After the spring, some cars were built with a horizontal chrome line along its side. Large, round taillights brand attributes were decorated with more chrome.
The price difference between each of the models was a little over $ 151 U.S. dollars. Apparently it was a modest amount, but it was in 1962. From 1958 to 1960 the increase in the price of the car averaged $ 60 per year, but the brand new T-Bird 1961 jumped more than $ 400 in price. An increase of $ 150 in 1962 would have been seen as a stepping stone for anyone who negotiates the purchase of a 1959 model. But for those who bought a T-Bird a year was less than the previous year's effort. It is also worth noting that the convertible broke the line of $ 4,000 for the first time in 1960, whereas it did in 1961 Hardtop. Convertible Roadster for 1962 came to $ 5,000.
Posted by: twelch
on Mar 20, 2009
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As the temperatures fluctuate, so does the air pressure in your tires. If tire pressure is checked on a regular basis, it's often in need of adjustment. Proper tire pressure can improve your cars maximum fuel mileage, provide better tire traction, increased handling characteristics and extended tire life.
Every tire has its manufacturer-specified pressure printed on the sidewall. A conscious effort to keep your tires at their specified pressure can really pay off, perhaps when you need it the most.
Posted by: twelch
on Mar 20, 2009
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After you install headers on your engine, you will need to re-tune the engine. This is due to the improved cylinder scavenging of the exhaust gases. The improved scavenging causes a leaner burn in the cylinder. You will need to enrich the fuel mixer or even re-jet the carburetor primaries.
Starts with a new set of spark plugs and enrich the air/fuel mixture slowly. Check the plug color until you achieve a tan color. White is too lean and sooty black is too rich. This may take some time to get right, but it's well worth the effort. Don't forget to take up on those header bolts for the first few days of use, you don't want an exhaust leak.
Posted by: twelch
on Mar 20, 2009
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One of the most frequently ask questions we get is, "How do I upgrade to 12 volts". The 12 volt upgrade is probably the easiest and least expensive project for the do-it-yourselfer. Before we get into the project, we would like to share a few of the most frequently asked questions.
Posted by: twelch
on Mar 20, 2009
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The Not So Good Old Days
In today's environmentally conscious society, changing your own oil has become somewhat more challenging that it may have been in the past. In the 70's we used to save our used motor oil in 5 gallon drums and when they were full, we sold the oil to a recycler. As time progressed the recyclers found that they didn't have to pay for used oil and now charge for disposal. In the past few years, curb-side and drop-off recycling of used motor oil has become a standard in populated areas.
The restrictions on these services are many and time consuming. In our area, curb-side pickup of used motor oil is available if the oil is placed into one gallon plastic milk containers and if the cap is taped on. This sounds good until you try to empty an old style drain pan into a funnel atop a milk container. This can be rather messy.
Posted by: twelch
on Mar 20, 2009
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Electrical devices, including Spark Plugs, use only the electrical energy necessary to perform the function for which they are designed for. Ignition Wires are nothing more than conductors of supplied energy. An ignition wire that "allegedly" generates an "increase" in spark energy will have no effect on the spark jumping across the spark plug gap.
The energy consumed at the spark plug gap wouldn't be any more than what is needed to jump the gap. An example would be if your were to install in a 100 watt light bulb into a 100,000 watt source. The 100-watt bulb only consumes the wattage needed to illuminate it. This would be a feature not to pay extra for next time you shop for wires.
The best set of Ignition wires we have run across are the Taylor 10mm & 8mm, spiral wound wire sets. They about $50 for universal sets and about $40 for custom sets. Mallory Sidewinder and Ford Motorsports helical wound wire sets are very good as well. All run in the $40 to $50 dollar range.
Posted by: twelch
on Mar 20, 2009
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To unleash those hidden horses hiding in your GM H.E.I. distributor, consider installing an ignition re-curve kit. A simple change of the centrifugal advance weights and springs can make an unbelievable difference.
The kit can be purchased from your local auto parts store and can be installed in about half an hour. All you require are a few basic hand tools and a timing light to install the kit.
The weights are located immediately under the rotor. Even without changing the rotor, plugs, or plug wires it makes a dramatic difference. For $10.00 to $15.00 it is pretty cheap horsepower.
Posted by: twelch
on Mar 20, 2009
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Until recently, the most common method of checking an engine coolant hose was by visual inspection of the outside cover for signs of wear. Obvious signs of "ballooning" under pressure and "physical damage" are easy to spot, but what you can't see is what you really need to know about. Resent research has shown that most hoses fail from the inside out.
Posted by: twelch
on Mar 20, 2009
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Q & A on emission testing from Ted's Garage
Posted by: twelch
on Mar 20, 2009
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Winter driving is by far the hardest on your cars exterior. Sand, road-salts, ice and extreme cold temperatures create more wear on your cars exterior than the rest of all the other seasons combined. Winter Waxing is a very inexpensive way to keep your vehicle looking new longer.
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